Guided Archaeology Tours of France: the Gavrinis passage tomb

The mound of granite rocks that makes up the cairn has a diameter of about 50 meters – and covers a single rectangular slab-built burial chamber. The chamber is at the centre of the mound, about 2.5 meters wide, and is reached by a 14 meter long passage. The chamber is made up of 50 carefully placed slabs – at least on of which is thought to weigh up to 17 tons, and the passage is made up of 29 slabs. Twenty-three of the 29 Slabs are ‘decorated’ with engraved geometric patterns, including zigzags, nested u-shaped lines and lozenge shapes.

Decorated slabs inside the Gavrinis passage tomb

The passage tomb is generally accepted to be quite late in the Neolithic sequence, being no longer in use by about 3000 years before the present. In the Middle ages a small community of monks chose to settle on the island. The chapel was finally demolished in the beginning of the 19th Century.

In 1932 the owner of the island decided to eplore the passage tomb. He had the passage cleared of all the fallen loose stones. A few years later the passage tomb was visited and described by an inspector of historical monuments. But it was not for another hundred years before the site was excavated. The current presentation of the passage tomb derives from excavations and restoration work undertaken by the French Ministry of Culture from 1979 to 1984.

We visit this monument during a 2-night stay at the nearby town of Vannes. And, for those who enjoy a shellfish platter – this area is famous for them! During these two days we will get the chance to explore a number of the different types of megalithic monuments in the area.

Escorted Archaeology Tours of France: the medieval town of Rocamadour

For centuries people come from all over christendom to Rocamadour to expiate their sins, be cured or simply thank the Virgin of Rocamadour. The history and fortunes of pilgrimages to Rocamadour are complex, and are of course greatly influenced by other historical events, such as the Hundred Years’ War.

The Black Virgin of Rocamadour

Le Rocamadour goats cheese

Guided Archaeology Tours of France: the spotted horse panel in the cave of Peche Merle

The upper network of tunnels to the cave system has been known about since the turn of the 19th Century. But this part of the cave has no signs of prehistoric occupation. Prehistoric people only left traces in the lower network of tunnels, and it is in the ‘galleries’ that make up this part of the cave that we find the paintings and engravings.

The prehistoric galleries were discovered in 1922 by two young boys, André David (16) and Henri Dutertre (15). And the cave was opened to the public shortly thereafter in 1926. But visitor numbers are controlled for conservation reasons.

As with much of France’s prehistory, initial studies of the cave were undertaken by the local priest (from the nearby town of Cabrerets), Father Amédée Lemozi. More recently the cave, and all the caves in the immediate vicinity, has been extensively researched by Michel Lorblanchet.

In 1995, an interdisciplinary team of scholars led by Michel Lorblanchet studied some samples of black colour from the ‘spotted horses’. They found that the pigment had been made up with a mixture of manganese and barium oxides. There were only small traces of charcoal; one of which was sufficient enough to be radiocarbon dated – from the neck area of one of the horses. The CNRS laboratory in Paris obtained a date of about 25,000 years before present.

Besides the spotted horses there are also many paintings of mammoths, aurochs, mountain goat, bison, deer, lion, female human figures, stencilled hand prints and geometric signs. There are also some rather enigmatic images of human figures: the so-called ‘wounded’ man – a male figure that appears to be impaled by a number of spears – and the bison-woman. There are also some calcified footprints made by an adolescent boy.

Guided Archaeology Tours of France: Les Eyzies

There really is much to do and see in Les Eyzies, but three days will suffice to provide a good introduction to the cave art that has made this town and area famous.

Besides the prehistoric legacy of the area, it also suffered invasions by the Vikings, Barbarians and Romans. The route de Compostella passed through the region, and the area was under siege during the Hundred Years War. Traces of this historical heritage can still be seen in the village and in the surrounding countryside.

Les Eyzies also has a wide variety of restaurants, where you can sample local, Périgord cuisine.

Escorted art tours of France: Château de Chenonceau

The castle was built spanning the river Cher, and it is in the river that the unique beauty of the castle’s architecture is reflected in the water. The castle is recorded in history as the Château des Dames. This is because Chenonceau exists as we know it today because of women – and not just because of the so-called ‘woman’s touch’. Château de Chenonceau is set in formal gardens that add to the splendour of the castle, and today these gardens are kept to the exacting standards they were in the heydays of the castle’s royal life.

The site we visit today began as a bridge, which then lent itself to a fortified mill around 1230. A fortified castle was then built for the Marques family. As a result of financial difficulties the site was then sold to Thomas Bohier, a financial advisor to King François I. Bohier was married to Katherine Briçonnet. It was his money that paid for the castle we see today, but Katherine’s influence that determined its appearance. On Bohier’s death the castle passed into the hands of royalty. And it was Henry II that then allowed Diane de Poitiers to live there. After the death of Henri II the castle became the residence of Catherine de Médicis. The castle was saved from the rigours of the French Revolution by Mrs Louise Dupin; the same woman who differentiated the spelling of the castle (chenonceau) from the local village (Chenonceaux).

Château de Chenonceau: Diane de Poitier's bedroom

During the First World War the castle served as a military hospital – where some 2254 wounded soldiers were rehabilitated. During the Second World War the castle straddled the border between the zone of occupation and the free zone. But in 1944 a bomb fell near the castle and original stained glass windows were destroyed.

The medieval embroidery in Bayeux

Vividly embroidered legendary animals, ships, Vikings, Norman and Saxon cavalries depict a series of events that took place both in Normandy and in England during the second half of the 11th century. Seventy meters long, and 50 centimeters wide, the narrative is embroidered on 9 linen panels, each stictched together. Over six hundred characters, two hundred horses, around fifty dogs, five hundred other animals, several dozen trees, some thirty buildings and forty ships are used to tell the story of William’s (then the Duke of Normandy) conquest of England.

While the general thrust of the story that unfolds over the 70 meters of cloth is known and not in question, there are a number of questions surrounding the origins of the ‘tapestry’. For example, who commissioned it, where it was made, how did it come to be in Bayeux, are just some of the aspects of the embroidery that exercise the minds of scholars who research the ‘Bayeux Tapestry’.

Most scholars today tend to agree that it was Odo, Bishop of Bayeux and William’s half-brother who commissioned the embroidery to decorate the nave of the new Cathedral of Our Lady of Bayeux. The Cathedral was consecrated on 14 July in 1077. But there is debate on where it was made. Those favouring an English origin suggest that it was made in Canterbury, or even Winchester. But some scholars argue for French origins, either in Normandy, perhaps the town of Bayeux itself, or an Abbey in Saumur.

And, just as all historical texts are written from a particular point of view, so too the story told on the embroidery depicts a version of events from a particular standpoint. But scholars are not agreed on whether the events depicted are done so from a pro-Norman or a pro-English point of view. These debatable questions, the historical background to the events depicted as well as the various misfortunes the embroidered cloth has endured over the years are expertly and creatively explored in a state of the art museum.

Art & Archaeology Tours France: the iconic Lascaux

Having myself been in both Lascaux and its replica, I can attest to the claims that the accuracy of the replica is measured in millimetres. While there is no escaping the fact that visiting the original is certainly a wonderful experience, visiting the reproduction should not be missed. In any event, both the 9 and 14-day tours of art and archaeology in France visit other cave art sites in the area so you get a good idea of what these caves are really like.

Other caves on the 9 and 14-Day itineraries include Bernifal, Rouffignac, Les Combarelles and Font de Gaume. The caves of Pech Merle and Cougnac are also included on the 14-Day itinerary. Each of these caves offers a unique experience and differing perspectives on the way in which we think about Stone Age art in Europe.

The paintings in Lascaux are still under threat from various micro-organisms that thrive on the prehistoric pigments. In 2002 an international committee for the conservation of Lascaux was set up by the French Ministry of Culture and Communication. At the end of February 2009 the Ministry of Culture and Communication is hosting an international conference in Paris on the conservation of Lascaux; and much of the research and recommendations of the international committee will be presented and discussed by researchers from all over the world.

The French Government’s website for Lascaux is well worth a visit. It has quite a bit of information about the history of the cave in recent times, the cave’s discovery, the making of the replica. The website also summarises current thinking about the cave and the art in prehistoric times, its age, the pigments, artefacts that were found in the cave. For those wanting more, there is a good bibliography. And of course there are numerous excellent photographs of the imagery. Click on ‘Lascaux’ under ‘Blogroll’ in the sidebar to the right.

Basse Copette: luxury Gite and B&B in Normandy

Day 10 of the 14-day tour is the first of a 3 night stop at Basse Copette. During this time a visit to the city of Amiens (to experience the spectacle of the Medieval Cathedral) and some of the World War 1 monuments in the Somme is planned. A free day is included on the itinerary; allowing you to rise at leisure. You will be free to relax and catch up, perhaps lying in the sun on the pool deck. Or enjoy walking in the Bresle Valley (where 80% of the world’s perfume bottles are made in the many glass factories) and, or the forest; a picnic lunch can be arranged.

If you prefer to press on, the day can also be spent seeing the many wonderful sites within easy reach of Basse Copette; from the type site of the Acheulian handaxes to the castle at Eu, where the first Entente Cordiale between Britain and France was signed. There are also many picturesque towns and villages with wonderful restaurants in the area. The options are endless and varied to suit all tastes and interests, as attested by the many families who holiday at Basse Copette every year.

And if your stay in France has not been long enough, and you wish to extend your stay at Basse Copette, this can be done either in the luxury B&B or the very comfortable self catering gite (subject to availability). Very reasonable car hire is available in nearby towns, and so you are able to be as independent as you like – and free to roam the area at will. These arrangements can be made for you, before you arrive. For further details about the various extension options at Basse Copette, make an enquiry.

The pool at Basse Copette: relax and enjoy views over the Bresle Valley

Archaeology Tours of France: Neolithic stone alignments at Carnac

There are over 300 standing stones, spread over 4 kilometres which take up about 40 hectares. The guided archaeology tours visit the alignments of Kermario, Le Menec, Kerlescan and Le Pett Menec (La Trinité-sur-Mer), all of which make up the site of Carnac.

Archaeology Tours of France: the stone alignments of Menec

Excavations suggest these alignments are dated to the Neolithic period (the so-called New Stone Age), between 4500 and 2500 B.C. This period marked the beginning of sedentary existence, and farming in western Europe.

The alignments of Carnac are generally considered to have had a religious function. It is thought that the alignments of standing stones indicated the way to a sacred enclosure, and the dolmens had a funerary function.

Art Tours of France: Monet's garden at Giverny

 
The house, with its striking pink exterior render, makes a fascinating tour and has the artist’s precious collection of Japanese prints on display.

Spring begins with a mass of narcissus, followed by tulips, azaleas, rhododendrons, lilacs, begonias, the irises Monet was especially fond of and which he planted in long, wide rows, and peonies – tree and herbaceous – given to him by Japanese friends. Then come the campanulas, daylilies, lilies, delphiniums, lupins and field poppies. The arrival of summer in June brings morning glory, more campanulas, sweet peas, gaillardias, snapdragons, all the roses you can imagine, stocks, columbines, foxgloves, nasturtiums, phlox, gentian, salvia… Then it’s September, with single-flower and cactus-flowered dahlias, Japanese anemones, rockroses, sunflowers, hollyhocks, hundreds of asters.